Beyond Byron: Leila McKinnon’s Northern Rivers guide
Freshly arrived Byron Bay resident Leila McKinnon unearths some local heroes far from the well-worn tourist trails of her new home town
Here’s the thing. What other small Australian town could possibly come up in conversation with Woody Harrelson during an interview in The Bahamas?
It was years ago and I was on a junket for a forgettable movie, when the actor abruptly stopped talking about the film to say, in his characteristic southern drawl, how much he loved Byron Bay. Forgive the great clanging name drop. I’m just saying that for a town that doesn’t boast a set of traffic lights and, according to the most recent census, is home to a mere 5500 people, Byron makes a big noise.
Its gorgeous surf beaches and boho vibe attract more than 2 million visitors a year. Sometimes it feels like at least a million of them are all on the road to town at once. That’s why, even though I live just 15 minutes away, I often head out of town to places as beautiful as Byron but whose charms are a whole lot quieter. Once you get to know the district, you realise that the area around Byron Bay is peppered with delightful little villages, places with just as much charisma, better architecture and some of the coolest new eateries and hotels in the region.
So, at the risk of sending Woody and the haute-bohemian hordes in their direction too, here are some of the Northern Rivers’ quieter attractions.
MINYON FALLS
Drink up the vast ocean views as you head west from Byron on Coolamon Scenic Rd. From here you can drive to the dramatic Minyon Falls, via the hip hamlet of Federal. It’s pretty much a three-shop stop. There’s Moonshine, a shed selling coffee roasted onsite, non-alcoholic beer and nitro cold brew on tap. The general store looks like a step back in time, and it helpfully doubles as the bottle-shop. Lastly on the tiny strip is Doma Federal, perhaps one of Australia’s best and most strangely located Japanese restaurants. The sushi and the fish specials are delectable, and if you don’t believe me ask Chris Hemsworth, who occasionally causes a quiet stir just by being there.
BANGALOW
Just 13km inland from Byron, Bangalow is the one of the most picturesque main streets in Australia. Lined with true-blue facades from the agricultural boom of the early 1900s, it’s the perfect blend of rural and hipster. Sitting next to the knitted goodies in the CWA shop window is Town, a cafe and restaurant run by Karl and Katrina Kanetani who between them have worked at Tetsuya’s, Pier, Est and Quay. Across the road are the delightful Our Corner Store and Our Corner Kitchen, for expertly curated shopping and casual eating. If it’s a quick pick me up you’re looking for poke your head into Sparrow, a hole in the wall that’s serious about coffee.
NEWRYBAR
Less of a town than a junction of two country roads is Newrybar. On the wide verandahs of one historic home you can dine at Harvest, a restaurant serving fresh local produce with big city polish. Underneath you can buy fresh baked goods straight out of the original 110-year-old wood-fired oven. And across the abundant terraced vegetable garden a barista works the front balcony of another weatherboard home turned delicatessen. On the other side of the street is Newrybar Merchants, another lust-worthy old cottage packed with sophisticated homemade goods from the many talented local craftsmen and artists.NEWRYBAR
CABARITA
It’s a 45-minute drive up the highway to Cabarita but Halcyon House is worth it for the luxe fit-out alone. The once rundown motel has been transformed into a designer’s dream, the kind of place with an instagrammable background around every corner. Knock yourself out on a selfie spree, stay the night in the individually decorated lush rooms, lounge by the achingly stylish pool, or just dine at the restaurant where the meals by chef Ben Devlin are more than a match for the divine decor.
BRUNSWICK HEADS
Head north from Byron on the highway and within 20 minutes, you’ll be in the stunning coastal town of Brunswick Heads. It’s the kind of place that reminds you of holidays as a child. There’s a wide and lazy river, bridges for jumping into said river, a grand old pub with generous meals and a welcoming beer garden, break walls, a sheltered river mouth, a surf beach and a long rock pier for the purposes of promenading or fishing. There’s also the critically acclaimed Fleet restaurant, so popular you have to book months ahead to get in. If you miss out try its little sister Ethel Food Store for salads, bagels, tarts and take-home meals with cred. And if it’s an old-fashioned burger and shake you’re after, Old Maids on the main drag will hit the spot in an unapologetically calorific way.
Channel 9 presenter Leila McKinnon is a co-owner of the Hotel Brunswick in Brunswick Heads.